MELAKA, Sept 11 — What was once cubes of pressed radish cake now barely hold their shape, threatening to fall apart when nudged with chopsticks.
Ribbons of scrambled eggs, a slick of chilli sauce or sweet sauce (or both). The aroma of the heavens.
This is the fried carrot cake or chai tau kway that residents in Ujong Pasir, Melaka wake up early for. It is a tradition for many families, with some dabao-ing a packet or two for the sleepyheads still in bed at home.
I know this because I used to be one of the sleepyheads myself.
The chai tau kway stall itself is located just outside Hilir Garden Ice Cafe & Restaurant, a popular kopitiam in the neighbourhood.
Mornings here begin with a gentle hum of chatter and clinking cups. You simply have to start your day with a cup of strong local Melaka kopi.
When the shop is busy, it might take a while for the coffee to arrive but it’s well worth it, for the jolt of caffeine and the robust flavour.
(Or perhaps it’s simply the sweetness of evaporated milk in coffee that wakes one up. Either way, what works, works.)
At the heart of this bustle is the chai tau kway stall, where squares of steamed radish cake lie in wait.
While there are many other stalls inside the kopitiam, what you will soon notice is that whatever the morning crowd orders, there is at least a plate or two of chai tau kway on every table.
The setup is actually fascinating, and remarkably efficient. A wide, shallow wok is used, akin to a griddle.
On one side is a pile of partially fried steamed radish cake; the other end is where fresh batches are cooked to order with egg and preferred sauces.
It might be helpful here to observe that the terms “fried carrot cake” and “fried radish cake” are used interchangeably to refer to chai tau kway in English. It doesn’t matter which version you prefer, the dish is delish either way.
When an order comes in, the cook slides a scoop of the radish cake towards the hotter side of the wok. We hear the sizzle punctuating the air like a promise; cue the Pavlovian response.
(Most of us are conditioned to the sounds of cooking, no? It’s part of our survival instinct, or maybe just glorious gluttony. Wonderfully charming, whichever it is.)
The golden cubes begin to crisp at the edges while retaining soft, yielding centres. It takes a steady hand and years of experience to coax these radish cakes into something both creamy and crunchy at the same time.
Egg slips in next, transforming the pieces into morsels wrapped in amber yolk and tender white. Speed is of essence here; the soft egg curds are formed when fried quickly over high heat.
The choy poh (preserved radish) adds a delicate salinity, further buffered by the use of dark soy sauce.
A flick of chilli sauce or sweet sauce, according to preference, and then the chai tau kway is ready to be plated.
All in the manner of minutes.
The result is ambrosia and nostalgia all in one bite (or slurp, if one is eating fast). The textures delight in their unexpected contrast: almost buttery here, then a crunch perfumed by wok hei.
Yet this is also a gentle dish, a breakfast staple here in Melaka, meant to be slowly savoured gently over conversations and coffee. Not too rich, not at all refined, but comforting and absolutely divine.
The best bits are the caramel-kissed nuggets that give way to a soft interior. You’d find yourself wanting more, as we did, as many do.
Indeed, every customer leaves their plate clean, ready for another round!
Nowadays I rise earlier whenever I am back in Melaka, to be among the first in line. Truly waking up to the smell of kopi and chai tau kway. Call it carrot cake or radish cake, this humble delight tastes just as heavenly.
Carrot cake stall outside Hilir Garden Ice Cafe & Restaurant
360 A, Jalan Low Hee Kong,
Taman Hilir,
Ujong Pasir, Melaka.
Open daily (except Wed closed) 8am till sold out.
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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